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How to Watermark Your Images Using GIMP

Opening the Layers/Channels/Paths/Undo Dialog in GimpOpening the Layers/Channels/Paths/Undo Dialog in Gimp There's been some talk on PR lately of images, and companies and/or people using them without permission, and it's come up that a lot of people (including dfr!) don't know how to watermark their images. The thread that prompted this post was the one started by Rebecca of Tales of a Wannabe Seamstress about pattern companies publishing blog photos on Facebook, but there have been several other threads recently on similar topics.

While someone with much photo-editing skill can probably remove most watermarks, just having it decreases the temptation to simply swipe an image because it's easy, and increases the likelihood that if someone else does use your images, they'll at least credit you.
In general, circulation of your work through comments, links, excerpts, etc., is usually positive, and inclusion on gallery and "social collection" sites like Pinterest or Wists is generally a good thing. Whenever you put something up online, you shouldn't have the expectation that it will be private, and usually visibility is what you want. But having your images simply stolen is never fun.

How to Create New Layers in GimpHow to Create New Layers in Gimp

You should consider carefully before objecting to properly attributed excerpts, even if you weren't asked. Interlinking and commenting on what other people have done is what makes the blogosphere go 'round. If someone has quoted you or shown a reasonable picture or screenshot of something you've done that could be considered fair use, and has linked to you and properly credited it, you should probably be happy rather than angry. The guideline on fair use is that their use shouldn't decrease the value of what you've published. That doesn't mean they can't criticize it, it just means that they can't include so much that your own post would become redundant to their readers. The legal criteria for fair use are outlined by United States Code Title 17, Subsection 107.



Gimp Opacity Slider and Layer Mode SelectionGimp Opacity Slider and Layer Mode Selection

How To Watermark Your Images

So, some quick instructions on watermarking. Most of what you're going to do uses the Layers/Channels/Paths/Undo dialog. It should open along with GIMP, but if it dosn't, you can access it through the "windows" menu in GIMP's top toolbar. (You can view the larger versions of images in this tutorial, and on my blog in general, by clicking on them.)
What you're going to want to do is create a new layer for the watermark.

Note that when you add text, that text is always added in a new layer, and the layer is automatically labeled by what the text says. So if you're watermarking using text only, you shouldn't need to add your new layer manually.

New layers added using the "add new layer" button (Circled in red) are by default called "New layer," "New layer #1," etc. If you right click on the layer in the layers dialog (Not in your image!) the first option is "Layer attributes," which will allow you to change the name of your layer if you wish to do so.

Once you've created a new layer, whether it's text or an image (I've created a GIMP brush for my watermark, so I can easily stamp it anywhere) you can manipulate the layer opacity and mode using the options just above the list of layers. Whatever layer is selected will be the one affected by your selections. Opacity should be fairly self explanatory: 0 is completely transparent (invisible) and 100 is completely opaque.
The layer modes contain things like overlay, darken only, lighten only, and value. They dictate how the layer shows itself. For example, if you make a layer the "darken only" mode, you'll only see the contents of that layer in places where the selected layer is darker than what is under it.

When you select Edit > Paste as > Paste as New Layer, your newly pasted layer will be a floating selection, not yet anchored to a "real" layer. You can fix this by clicking the "create new layer" button. Otherwise, if you paste anything else, that floating section will automatically anchor to the layer beneath it. I believe anchoring is the same as merging down. It's not the same as moving down, which is simply rearranging the order of the layers.

Hot Days and Cheap Butter Knives as Pattern Weights

Metal Bar As Pattern WeightMetal Bar As Pattern Weight Cheap butter knives work very well to keep patterns and lightweight fabric from blowing around.Cheap Butter Knives As Pattern Weights It's hotter than heck out, so definitely time to start using some of that chiffon I posted about earlier to make some nice light blouses to go over tank tops and corsets.

Despite the fact that it's in the 90s and I'm melting, it's only June 1st, and I'm still stubbornly trying to avoid turning on the air conditioning.

Have you ever TRIED laying out chiffon on patterns and cutting it out in a room with multiple fans running?

It didn't take long before I was searching the house for the perfect makeshift pattern weights. I have a couple of washers I've used, but they just weren't enough. Then I found this metal bar in my desk. I think it's actually meant to be the bar that holds up hanging file folders, but it makes an excellent pattern weight--I just needed more.

And then I had an "Ah-ha!" moment. What else is flat and metal and long enough that it can hold down a line rather than just a little spot?

Cheap butter knives! Not good butter knives--you don't want the ones with nice thick handles and shaping so that they feel good in your hands--that nice ergonomic design that looks pretty and makes them comfortable will work against you.
You want the cheap kind that you get in the sets from Walmart that cost less than ten dollars for the entire table setting for eight people. The ones that are barely shaped at all and are not really any more than flat metal bars.

Yes, perfect!

Quilters Knots

Dfr and I were recently talking about how we'd both eventually have to get paid memberships to Foundations Revealed given that we've both been pretty obsessive about corsets and have started to exhaust the free information available. I'd already used the free "sample" articles pretty extensively; that set of instructions on how to draft a corset pattern to your own measurements is one of their free articles. So yesterday I broke down and bought a membership. (Well, just a month to start with.) Lo and behold, they explain how to make the flossing look neater from the inside! Except part of those instructions were to "make a quilter's knot." I guess they weren't figuring that people would be getting paid subscriptions to corset-making sites without first having basic knowledge like common sewing knots! The thing about starting with complicated projects is that you don't learn basic techniques first. I was still making knots the way we learned in middle school home ec, wrapping it around my finger and then twisting and pulling it. Actually, come to think of it, what that actually does is very similar to a quilter's knot, except that the quilter's knot is smaller and possibly more controlled, although I'm still practicing it, so mine aren't so controlled. So anyway, I went off in search of a how-to on making a quilter's knot, and came up with a whole lot of gobledegook. Videos and sets of instructions that I'd follow, and end up with no knot at the end of my thread.
Then I found this one! It's really quiet, so you have to turn the volume all the way up to hear it, although the video is clear enough that you're more following what she's doing by sight than by the narrative. But she actually shows you what to do to get a knot at the end of your thread! Hallelujah!


Creating Flossing Flowers

Flossing FlowerFlossing Flower
Flossing Flower 2Flossing Flower 2Flossing Flower 3Flossing Flower 3
Flossing flowers are probably the simplest of *ahem* fancy flossing, but it's a good place to start, right? I did the bottom (green) part the way Sidney Eileen demonstrates in her flossing tutorial.
For the top part of the flower, I bring the thread through from the back, above where I've made the stem, and then thread it around the top of the stem and bring it back up, like in the first picture to the right, and then back through at the same level, on the other side of the bone. I repeat that from the other side, down a couple of millimeters from the previous level of "petals." I don't yet have a set procedure for the rest of the flower petals, I just kinda keep going in a similar manner until it looks like it might be finished.

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