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Simplicity 2700 In-Progress

Simplicity 2700 Inside Front In-ProgressSimplicity 2700 Inside Front In-Progress
I've been working on Simplicity 2700, the "amazing fit" pants. I'm doing them in a $1.99/yard Dockers cotton I got from FabricMart awhile ago as a mockup for eventually doing them in the lovely striped wool that is dfr's fault.

The instructions aren't bad (and I'm pretty demanding of instructions) but I do have some concerns. For one thing, the left front yoke. As you can see, all matched up, it only extends up to the edge of the fly underlap. This is a problem because the yoke has a facing, which of course requires a seam allowance.. but there doesn't seem to be an allowance.

Simplicity 2700 Back In-ProgressSimplicity 2700 Back In-ProgressThen there's the back yoke. It extends significantly beyond the main pattern pieces on the sides, and I don't see that explained anywhere. It seems that for a pair of pants that includes darts, they completely ignored the effect of the darts when drafting the yoke.
Simplicity 2700 Front In-ProgressSimplicity 2700 Front In-Progress Actually this doesn't seem all that surprising, since the main pieces have three different versions (for "slim," "regular," and "curvy" figures) but they all use the same yoke pieces. That might not explain it, though; to pick a size, the instructions say to "Measure your waist and hip (at the fullest point). [sic] Compare those measurements to the measurements on the pattern envelope." So the waist size shouldn't be different between the different versions, should it? The "curvy" pieces use two darts while the "slim" and "regular" pieces use one. (I'm using the regular pieces currently.)
So they must have neglected to account for the darts in drafting. This seems like a rather significant drafting mistake to me. It also makes me nervous. It's not explained anywhere, and I don't like to trim down pieces when I don't know why they're not the right size. It couldn't relate to the lack of a seam allowance for the end of the left front yolk, because there are notches that match up. (And because that would just be bizarre.)

So, I'm plugging along with the pattern, and hoping that it fits well, but for something that got such rave reviews, I'm certainly disappointed that there seem to be such significant errors.

I should note that this is only the second "real" pants pattern I've sewn. I've done drawstring pants and leggings, but the only other pants with pockets and a fly and all that I've done was Jalie 2908, and not many patterns can live up to that. I think I like that the fly construction method doesn't involve basting the front closed-- apparently that's a very "home sewing method."
I guess I won't really be able to develop a "true" opinion of the pattern until I've gotten far enough to get into the fitting.

Butterick 4609 Blouse, Finished. (And I Used My Buttonholer!)

I finished my with-real-cuffs blouse!Floral Rayon Challis Blouse -- FinishedFloral Rayon Challis Blouse -- Finished
I ended up using stitch witchery in the front band, but I think I actually used too much, it's stiffer than I would have liked it to be. I'll keep that in mind for next time-- and I definitely will be sewing this pattern again.

This one doesn't seem to photograph too well, but I think it's mainly the print that's responsible for that. It's a pretty print, but it's so contrasting that it's hard to make out the details of the blouse! That's not necessarily a bad thing, though, since the front is a bit strange since I overinterfaced (is "interfaced" the right word when I used stitch-witchery to make the fabric interface itself?) the front band a bit. I think the front was supposed to end up slouchier.

While others had reported that the pattern runs large, I found it to be just about right, actually a bit too small in the hips. I ended up letting out the back darts a bit, which seemed to fix the problem. I'm definitely glad that I didn't go down a size.

I'm not totally sure how I feel about the neck tie thingy. It's kinda cool, but kinda silly at the same time. It was definitely worth making, though; quick and easy, and another option for the blouse.
French CuffFrench Cuff
I'm loving the French cuffs. I was afraid they would be goofy, but I really like them. I made "cuff links" out of buttonhole thread and mystery bundle buttons.

And I finally rewired my Necchi BC! (Okay, fine, Kris did most of it.. but he's the expert!) So, with my BC rewired, I now have a low-shank machine in good working order, which means I can use my buttonholer! I got the buttonholer ages ago, thinking that since it was made specifically for Necchi, it would fit my machine.. and then realized upon getting it that it was for low-shank machines, and I use mostly high-shank. Low-shank buttonholers are cheap. High-shank buttonholers are not.

So, with my working BC and my buttonholer attachment, I was able to make nice automated pretty buttonholes! (Up to this point all of my buttonholes had been as-carefully-as-possible zigzagged.

ButtonholesButtonholes

Floral Rayon Challis Blouse with French Cuffs -- In Progress

I've been sewing, so you can't say I haven't!Butterick 4609 View C -- In ProgressButterick 4609 View C -- In Progress

I've been working on View C of Butterick 4609-- the blouse with the French cuffs. I'm doing the sash thingy too. I'm making it out of one of the "Trendy" rayon challis-es I got from FabricMart's most recent 75% off sale.

It's not done, but it's getting there. I still need to hem it and put in the buttonholes, and stabilize the front band. Well, it's not actually a front band it's a self-front-band, basically just folded over and then over again to form what would normally be the front band. It says to catch-stitch it in place. And doesn't say anything about interfacing. I used some stitch-witchery tape in between the innermost layers, I'll probably add another strip on the back. I'm not completely sure, though. I've been playing with buttonholes on scraps. Hopefully I'll pester Kris into helping me rewire my BC so I can use my actual buttonholer. But, uh, I've been saying I'm going to rewire the BC for quite awhile..

This blouse is the first time I've successfully made real cuffs! My first try was McCall's 5929 which caused a huge amount of frustration and ended up being a wadder. The Simplicity 2758 blouse I made back in December to shut dfr up only had those little narrow cuffs and not all the trappings real cuffs like the bound slit-- and the bound slit is the mind-boggling part. (Why didn't I do a post on that blouse? I wrote a review, but no blog post. I thought I wrote a post, but now all that seems to be on my site is the picture. Oh, it was probably because it was while dfr was in Florida! LOL Okay, that explains my lack of a post!
But this time I managed real cuffs! The instructions on the pattern were pretty good, and in combination with my copy of the Singer Sewing Book (1949 edition) I managed to make it work!

It looks a little awkward on my dress form. I do hope it ends up looking better on me. My dress form is slightly crooked, which makes everything look a bit awkward. Most of the reviews say that it runs a bit big, but it actually seems quite snug. I cut a 14, which should be about right, and seems to be, but it's hard to tell for sure before finishing up the buttons and all. I did use French seams, but I don't think they should have made too much of a difference.

I'm hoping to finish this one up tomorrow. Either with buttonholer-ed buttonholes or my normal unautomated machine buttonholes.

Two Free 5-Yard Assortments From FabricMart

Two Free 5-Yard AssortmentsTwo Free 5-Yard Assortments I ended up placing two orders during that time when FabricMart was sending out free 5-yard assortments with any order over $35. And this time it wasn't even dfr's fault! When that turquoise linen went on sale, I just had to get it. (Along with some of the oatmeal-colored linen with the floral print.)

Since they're free, I obviously can't complain, but the first one was three yards of a synthetic coral fabric and two yards of a strange thick black-and-lime-green houndstooth knit. It feels like one of those reversible knits that's actually two knits put together, but the back just looks like a wrong side. I think it's synthetic, but of course knits are a lot harder to pull threads off of than wovens are. The houndstooth stuff might make a cute light jacket. I'm not generally a fan of coral, but I'm thinking the coral stuff might work quite well for grocery bags.

The second assortment, however, I'm quite happy with. There's 2 3/4 yards of the black plant-based (seems like cotton) fabric, and 2 5/8 yards of a nice thick brick red-brown wool flannel. I may not be a big fan of brown in general, but I'm absolutely thrilled to have some good wool flannel! I've drooled over wool flannel before, and the stuff could make a really great lining or interlining. Not to mention the fact that my entire outlook on brown changed with that mushroom brown linen. Brown may not be such a pretty color on its own, but it's the perfect color for floral embroidery!

Silk Panel

Silk PanelSilk Panel Silk Panel Pattern CloseupSilk Panel Pattern Closeup Y'all know that "If Microsoft made cars" joke? Remember the line about accepting that every so often, it'll suddenly stop working and you'll have to close all of the windows and restart the car? The other night when I originally took the pictures of the panel, I was having trouble getting my computer to recognize when I plugged the memory-card-to-USB converter into my USB hub. Dunno what the problem was, but restarting the computer fixed it.

So anyway, here are the full panel and closeup views of the silk border print I've gotten in my last two mystery bundles. (I got a two-panel piece in each bundle. They were labeled as two yards, but each panel is actually about 42 inches, so each piece is about two and a third yards.)

It's definitely heavier than I'd think of for chiffon; I'm not totally sure what it is. Crepe de chine, maybe? Georgette? I don't have swatches of either of those in my fabric dictionary. I'll have to go through more of my old mailers to see what swatches I might have that haven't yet found their way to their respective fabric dictionary entries.

It's not too transparent, but I wouldn't call it opaque either. I do have some trouble gauging the sheerness of fabrics that are neither totally sheer nor totally opaque. Are there any guidelines so far as lighting and such for determine how sheer a fabric is? In the picture you can see the two horizontal lines from the glare off of the picture frame that's behind the panel. It recovers well from being pinned to the wall, too. At first I just pinned the selveges on the side, but it drapes too much not to add a pin in the center. The pin didn't seem to do any damage.

I don't know which way is up. Sense seems to dictate that the stripe would be at the bottom, which is certainly the most practical so far as making it into a garment; the horizontal line would be at the hem.
But it almost looks upside-down, doesn't it? Maybe that's because some of those sets of three wedge-thingies are green, yellow, and pink which gives them a traffic-light look. And the design has a kinda martini-glass shape to it. It's that stem-glass shape with a line sticking out the top. Although turn it upside down, and it looks like hanging lamps. Or suspended citrus wedges. Folding or feather fans? But then those sticks point out the top would bop the user in the face.
Why I'm turning a geometric fabric print into some kind of non-blobby Rorschach test, I'm not sure. It just seems like it needs an explanation.

Well, I'm sending one of the pieces to dfr, so maybe she'll be able to explain it. And figure out what it wants to be. She's the one with decent style/overall look visualization ability. My visualization ability is generally limited to spatial manipulations; rotating and flipping around shapes and such. Somehow things like imagining a fabric as a garment, or what a garment would look like in another fabric never come easily to me. There have been quite a few nice patterns that I never considered just because I wasn't fond of the way they looked in the fabric on the front of the envelope. I may be getting a tad better at that with practice, but my progress there is slow.


Copyright note: I watermark photos I upload because I took the photographs, and because images are so very easily swiped on the internet. I am posting these photos of the physical object (fabric) that I received in a mystery bundle, in order to better describe and comment on said bundle.
Obviously I did not design the fabric or the print, and as such, the copyright for the print does not belong to me. The selvedge identifies the copyright owner as Calamo Silk, Inc., which appears to be a custom silk manufacturing company.
(A word of caution about their site: It's a flash site. The sound can be turned off. As far as I can tell, the same is not true for the scrolling background. And by "scrolling background" I don't mean that it scrolls as you scroll down the page, I mean it continuously scrolls horizontally, right to left, underneath the text and everything. It's a grey-on-black world map, and while it's not initially as obtrusive as the sound, it actually started to make me motion sick after a little while.)

My Latest Mystery Bundle (June 2011)

Mystery Bundle -- June 2011Mystery Bundle -- June 2011 I got an order from FabricMart last week, and I still hadn't posted about the mystery bundle because I've been a bad bad blogger who hasn't kept up with posting. I was gardening and reading some zombie books. Yes, I know I've gotta put up more garden pictures too.

So anyways, here's the bundle. It's not bad, but definitely not the best bundle I've ever gotten. The two on the left are synthetics, 1 5/8 yards of a light blue polyester satin and something that's synthetic and navy blue. I'll have to see what it thinks of water; if it's water repellant, it might be useful. Then there's 1 3/8 yards of this "heirloom" cotton print, 2 1/2 yards yards of this cotton/spandex shirting, and 2 yards of the same strange silk print I got in my last mystery bundle. Generally I'm happy with any silk.. but I really have no idea what to do with this stuff! The print is strange and I didn't know what to think of two yards of the stuff, let alone four!

I'll have to do a "best of mystery bundles" post one of these days. I got some really good mystery bundle fabrics last fall, like the green silk gazar and the blue charmeuse.

A Belated Fabric Post

Mystery Bundle -- April 2011Mystery Bundle -- April 2011

Someone bumped the mystery bundle thread on PatternReview, and I realized that I still hadn't put up any pictures of my last mystery bundle! I guess this was a fairly typical bundle, useful but not one of the really great ones. That fabric on the left is silk, but I'm not sure what to make of it. It's a heavy-ish chiffon (er, if that's not a contradiction in terms) with a kinda panel-type layout. I'm always happy to get silk, but I'm not sure what to do with it. The second one is that mushroom-brown linen I've already used, but have a bit left over. The third one is a rayon print that's soft and nice, but not quite enough to make a top out of. The last one is a green stretch twill. It's a rather bright color for twill, and I don't know what I'm going to do with that either. But overall, it was a bundle containing cotton, rayon, linen, and silk, so I'm not complaining.


Linens from FabricMartLinens from FabricMartAnd here are the fabrics I actually ordered along with that bundle. Dfr has been telling me I need linen, so when they had a big half-off sale on the linens, I ordered some. There's an "antique red," an orchid, and a black and white silk/linen blend. That silk/linen blend is WONDERFUL. It's soft and pretty and I just love it! I'm expecting to try making a tailored jacket out of it, although I've never actually done a tailored jacket yet, so that'll probably take some time.

Fabricmart Order!

The Fabrics I Ordered: All cotton, two shirtings, two gauzes, and a stretch corduroy.The Fabrics I Ordered: All cotton, two shirtings, two gauzes, and a stretch corduroy.
Mystery Bundle March 2011: Left to right, there's 1 3/4 yards of a black and heathered grey wool knit (not sure what % wool, but definitely wool,) 2 1/4 yards of a black and white ITY knit, 2 yards of a cream wool tricotine, 1 3/8 yards of powder blue wool gabardine, and 3 yards of a black cotton sateen.  No silk this time, but plenty of wool!  I imagine they're trying to get rid of wool for the summer.Mystery Bundle: Left to right, there's 1 3/4 yards of a black and heathered grey wool knit (not sure what % wool, but definitely wool,) 2 1/4 yards of a black and white ITY knit, 2 yards of a cream wool tricotine, 1 3/8 yards of powder blue wool gabardine, and 3 yards of a black cotton sateen. No silk this time, but plenty of wool! I imagine they're trying to get rid of wool for the summer.Well, there was a big FabricMart sale on cotton.. and since cotton is supposed to skyrocket, I have to get it while it's still cheap, right? There were nice cotton shirtings! And gauze, and corduroy. And I had that $10 gift certificate from Cat.
..and of course, I got a mystery bundle too.

FabricMart Mystery Bundle! February 2011

Febuary 2011 Mystery Bundle: Left to right, 1.25 yards gray wool gauze, 3 yards purple cotton (I think-- it's plant-based, anyway.  Seems like cotton) 2 yards taupe wool gabardine, 2 yards of one of those cotton prints that were on sale recently, and 2 yards stiff, thick-ish black silk (twill?)Febuary 2011 Mystery Bundle: Left to right, 1.25 yards gray wool gauze, 3 yards purple cotton (I think-- it's plant-based, anyway. Seems like cotton.) 2 yards taupe wool gabardine, 2 yards of one of those cotton prints that were on sale recently, and 2 yards stiff, thick-ish black silk (twill?) So I got sucked into the most recent 50% off sale, from which I got a beautiful silk charmeuse and a pink Shetland wool.. And a mystery bundle!

Red Fabrics

Red Fabric: From left to right, I got "cherry red" wool crepe (which WAS on sale-- in the 50%-off-this-week section!) a yard of the "deep cranberry" silk jacquard that I will probably use for a corset, a yard and a half of rayon/lycra jersey, and a yard of the "cranberry red" silk jersey that was discounted in January's mailer.Red Fabric: From left to right, I got "cherry red" wool crepe (which WAS on sale-- in the 50%-off-this-week section!) a yard of the "deep cranberry" silk jacquard that I will probably use for a corset, a yard and a half of rayon/lycra jersey, and a yard of the "cranberry red" silk jersey that was discounted in January's mailer.

Dfr has, of course, posted to boast about her newest fabric acquisitions, a haul of the on-sale silk/rayon brocades from FabricMart. I did not order any of those brocades for several reasons. I was trying to keep my purchases down to a reasonable level, and I had sworn that I was going to stop buying just sale fabrics for awhile in order to buy red fabrics, which I had realized were missing from my stash-- red fabrics don't go on sale very often. So, I resisted the brocades, and (besides the silk velvet and an order of the 10-yards-for-$5 stiff ecru cotton that will make a great sew-in interfacing) instead bought red.

The brocade was a huge temptation, and I certainly won't turn down her swatch offer, but my tendency to buy what's on sale has left me with not nearly enough red in my stash, and I certainly can't afford to buy both what's on sale AND red!

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