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And on With the Gore-Talk

Gore Front CloseupGore Front Closeup
Gore Back CloseupGore Back Closeup: Please excuse the messiness, it's just a test-gore.

As I consider Gloria's small-dart suggestion in response to my last post about gores and gussets, I've realized that creating a tiny (5mm) dart is exactly what those Foundations Revealed instructions say to do; they just don't specifically say that this process creates a tiny dart. The way I'd been imagining it, that dart would have been impossible, especially with the expectation of making the edge into which I insert the gore wrinkle-free. But since nobody seems to ever really insert a gore into a panel without some decorative embroidery at the point, I'm thinking that that dart is how it's done, and it's the combination of embroidery and coercive ironing that makes it not look like there's a wrinkle.
Furthermore, look at these pictures. See how --especially at the bottom-- the fabric of the gore is being pulled outward, creating a rounded shape and putting it on level with the panel into which it's sewn? The physical impossibility of sewing the gore, right sides together, to the panel, and then having the whole of the gore completely to the inside of that panel is responsible for creating that shaping.

Further complicating the subject of gore-vs-gusset is the fact that the What is a gusset? Fashion-Incubator entry mentions two opposing opinions on the definition of gusset, and speaks as though it could be entirely possible that neither one is outright wrong. As Kathleen Fasanella is generally quite vocal about her belief that there are wrong ways of doing things, this leave me with the impression that there could be multiple, opposing definitions without one of them necessarily being wrong. Of course, I could be wrong about that, and the topic could be concluded on the F-I private forum, which I'm not a member of. (I've thought about buying her book and applying to join, as she is very knowledgeable. However, I can't imagine myself in manufacturing. Even if I were able to eventually turn sewing into a business [which I'm not sure I could do anyway,] corsetry doesn't seem to generally work in the same way as industrial sewing. She is the definitive authority on how to launch a clothing line, but I don't know if starting a ready-to-wear line and creating custom corsets overlap much. Even when industrial sewing machines are used, real [as opposed to fashion] corsetry isn't actually "industrial" in nature. When she refers to "the industry" that definition seems to fairly specifically exclude anything bespoke. The cornerstone of "industrial sewing" appears to be standardization and uniformity. [Actually, that could probably be said of almost any industry.])

Hey mom, you've been reading all this. Think you can inquire at school about the technical and definitional differences between a gore and a gusset?

Comments

Certainly!

I will probably get a more useful response than when I asked if they were getting rid of any of their sergers.

I'd imagine so!

..that is, assuming that *are* clear and official definitions, and that I've been making some sense here.



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